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Training Tips



 


If you have a question that you would like answered on the training tips,
email Del:    .

Questions will be picked randomly to be answered on the web site monthly.
 


 
Hello Del,
            Have a 10 mo. filly and when I groom her she will turn her nose to me like she is wanting to nip but is not sure.  I do not know if she is wanting to groom me in response to my brushing her or if my grooming is irritating her.  I have not made any corrections towards her because I really don't know what she is doing.
Thank you!
Jan Lou E.

 

 
Dear Jan,
 
Your question is a good one.  Many times people cannot distinguish behaviors.  To answer those types of questions we have to check out all possibilities.  Are we grooming correctly and with the correct equipment?  Is the horse sore anywhere and what is the cause of the soreness? Does this behavior carry over  to any other activities such as blanketing or saddling?  Is it just on one side or on both?
 
For the discussion of this answer we will assume that the horse is not sore, you are using the proper equipment and grooming correctly.  With that assumption, then we need to look at horses' behaviors.  Watching horses in the pasture interact can answer a lot of questions if we know how to read the behavior.  Horses groom each other usually by standing head to tail.  They will groom with their chins, mouths and teeth.  Many times this ends with one or  the other deciding that enough is enough, that their partner is grooming to hard or that the partner has just entered a "personal" zone that they would rather not have touched. They let their partner know either by  leaving, biting the other horse, squealing and sometimes kicking.  That is the way that horses communicate with each other.
 
Now with that in mind we take a look at our relationship with the horse.  Part of how we care for a horse is by grooming them.  In order for us to be able to groom the horse we must have his/her cooperation.  That means that the horse must stand quietly for whatever length of time that we decide we need, and that they must accept the use of our grooming tools.
 
Lets go back to the horse behavior.  Many times their are clues to what a horse thinks about something prior to  the worst behavior scenario such as kicking, biting, rearing, striking, etc.  What are some of those clues.  Well the obvious ones are ear pinning, nostril flaring and head bobbing.  Some of the more subtle ones that we might miss or ignore are leaning toward the person, stepping toward the person, tail swishing, tail tucking, nostril flaring, head shaking, and head flexing.
 
We will take head flexing since that is one that your horse is exhibiting.  Horses will flex their heads to the side for many reasons.  Biting at flies, scratching, curiosity, pain, annoyance and probably more as well.  For our purpose we will look at annoyance.  Most of the time during grooming this is the reason for the head flexing. It is also a common expression during blanketing, saddling and sometimes mounting as well.
 
This behavior is a warning that your horse wants you to stop what you are doing.  We must always take these warnings seriously as they can easily escalate into more dangerous behaviors.  She should be corrected for this behavior. 

Keep watching for those signs!

Del

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi Del:
I hope you are doing well.  I noticed you had a clinic this weekend.  What a nice day for it!  

If you have a minute in the next few days, I'd like some advice on a project I started with a friend last week.  He has a 3 week old foal and can go up to it, scratch its back and rub on it.  I noticed a picture on your website where you were using a "towel" to apply light pressure on a young one.  What is taking place there?

He wants me to help him with this, so I'd like to have a few tools in mind.  I realize you can't go into great detail over the email, but I would appreciate knowing where you might begin with this kind of project.

Best to you,
Stephen S.

 


 

Stephen,
That is a very good question.  I will start my answer by telling you that the filly in the picture is about 5 months old.  We were preparing her for halter breaking.

Working with a 3 week old is a little different than working with a 5 month old and that is different still from working with a yearling.

I noticed that you said the owner could "scratch" the foal's back,  I notice that you did not mention that he could approach the foal in the head area.  The foal is keeping his feet in a position to leave by allowing you to approach from behind.  He/She feels more in control of the situation and less trapped in that position.

If you want to start with a 3 week old getting some basic handling down, the first thing that needs to happen is that you need to allow the foal to approach you (only one of you). Don't overwhelm the foal by having more than one person to start with.  A good way to begin this would be to give the mother some attention, such as brushing and basic care.  While you are working on the mother allow the foal to just hang out without pressure from you.  In a short time most foals will be curious enough to give you a sniff.  Let this progress until the foal feels comfortable being around you some.  At this point you may extend your hand to "greet" the foal.  Your hand should be palm down, fingers together and curled to look like a muzzle.

When the foal will "greet" you by sniffing your hand you should turn away from the foal to take the pressure off and allow the foal to feel safe with his/her approach to you.  Continue this routine until the foal feels comfortable touching your hand and does not feel the need to leave.  This may take some time and does not have to be done in one session.  Remember a foal at that age has a very short attention span.  Sessions should be no more than 10 to 15 minutes.  They can be frequent, as in several times a day but each one should be short.

Your next step is to give the foal one rub on the muzzle or lower nose area below the eyes.  If you see that the foal is going to leave as a result of this try to withdraw your hand BEFORE the foal leaves.  Go back to the previous step and then proceed with another attempt.  Staying close to the mother during this work will help the foal feel safer about the approach.  Do not try and keep the foal from the mother at this point.

Once you can give the foal a rub on the face, you are most of the way there.  You should then proceed to be able to rub the foal all over with your hand.  Using the retreat if at anytime the foal wants to leave.  The more time you
take without rushing things at this stage of the foals life the more accepting the foal will be of new things as he/she grows up.

With this stage you are teaching the foal how to accept new things in his/her life.  It is important that this foundation is solid.  Sometimes as humans we tend to be thinking about the end result, i.e. getting a halter on.  But at this point that is not the important lesson for the foal to learn.

I must add at this point that you should be aware that foals can turn and kick very quickly.  Especially when they feel trapped.  That is also a part of their learning and exercise at that age so they kick up playing too.  At this point if this happens you should gently move the foal off by raising your hands or tossing the mothers lead rope gently in his/her direction to let the foal know that is unacceptable behavior.

After you can successfully rub the foal all over with your hands with the foal standing comfortably you can move on to the next step.

You need to be able to put your arm under  and over the foals neck. Again keeping the policy of retreating before the foal leaves if he/she starts to feel uncomfortable.

Once the foal is standing quietly and not bothered by the motion of your arm or by the feel of your hand all over then you can start asking the foal to move away from pressure.  Start by putting your arm under the foal's neck
while you are facing his/her rear.  Rub down the foal's back with your other hand and then ask the foal to step the hindquarter over just one step by putting pressure on the side of her hip.  You might need to even accept a lean in the right direction.  Just use light pressure with your hand and wait for the foal to decide to move away from the pressure. Release the pressure immediately when the foal moves away from the pressure. Do this on both sides until the foal can readily move the hindquarter when pressure is applied. Again following the retreat action if the foal starts to feel trapped or scared.

If the foal needs to move more than one step and go back to her mother allow her to do so. DO NOT TRY TO HOLD HER THERE.  Just start again.

Once the foal is moving the hindquarter freely you can start asking the front quarter to move.  Put one hand on the foals neck and the other above the muzzle.  Do not grip with either hand.  Keep your hand soft and apply light pressure to bend the foal's neck in the opposite direction.  Once the foal's neck is bent a little wait for him/her to take a step over.  Release the pressure immediately when she moves that direction even if it is just a lean.

Once you have the hindquarter and the front quarter moving readily upon pressure you are ready to start with something other than your hand.  Here is where we get to what you saw in the picture on my web site.  Start with a small towel and work with the foal on accepting the towel being rubbed all over him/her just as you did with your hand.  Follow the same retreat techniques as you did then as well.  If the foal is bothered by the approach of the towel work it from a distance before approaching.  Allow the foal to take a good look at the towel then take the towel away.  Continue this until the foal can accept the towel then proceed with being able to rub him/her all over.

Once the foal is comfortable with being rubbed with the towel all over you are ready to use the towel as a tool.  Work with the foal so that you can place the towel on either side of the foal's neck just like you did with your arm.  From above and from below. Make sure that you only hold it there only momentarily in the beginning.  Again avoid making the foal feel trapped.

When the foal accepts the towel being placed around his/her neck then you are ready to apply a little pressure with the towel around the foal's neck to ask him/her to move the front quarter toward you.  Be sure that you place the towel mid way down the foal's neck so as not to pressure her poll area.  Foals are very sensitive in the poll area and you want to avoid possibly hurting the him/her.  As soon as the foal makes an effort to move your direction take the pressure off the towel, remove the towel and walk away from the foal.  This will assure the foal that he/she is not trapped there.  Then repeat until the foal can readily move away from the pressure of the towel on both sides.

Your next step will be to hold the towel around the foal's neck with one hand and ask the hindquarter to move over with the other just as you did with your arm earlier.  Follow the same steps that you did when you were using your arm.

Now you are ready to get a new tool.  Use a thick soft lead rope and go thru the same steps as your arm and  the towel.

When the foal is accepting these "tools" well and moving away from pressure readily, then you are ready to begin the haltering steps.

Foals are great fun to work with because they are a clean slate.  Whatever you teach them they take it very literally.  So, remember to never trap the foal, keep the mother near, and always remember that RELEASE.

Have Fun.
Del
 

Copyright Del Wideman, www.delwideman.com, 2003.  All rights reserved.